December 8th - Temple Walk

This morning we decided that we would see some of the famous temples of Kyoto. We decided to take the metro to the north eastern part of central kyoto and follow a famous tourist walk, from Nanzenji Temple north past Eikan-do Temple along the "Path of Philosophy" and finally to Ginkakuji, the eastern twin of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion). Arriving at Keage station we looked at a map, and incorrectly decided that we would have to turn left at Exit 1. After about 500 meters of following a busy road we sensed that we were wrong when we didn't see any temples or tourists and only strange old men with one tooth. We asked a postman who thought we were mad but drew a map for us which explained our mistake. Backtracking to the station we saw too late the huge sign pointing to the tourist trail.

Finally we began our walk, immediately we started to see old fashioned walls and beautiful trees and gardens. We didn't intend to go into the grounds of Nanzenji but when we saw the enormous temple gate we couldn't resist and we wandered around taking photos and admiring the scenery. This part of Kyoto is at the base of a string of mountains and we followed a small path on the edge of the temple up to a little pagoda. A drainage aqueduct thundered past us and we wandered (carefully) along the edge to peer through the trees over the city.

We decided to move on to Eikan-do temple but it was just about lunch time when we arrived. The first acceptable place we found was an okonomiyaki restaurant. The food was great but an entire japanese family stared at us the whole time.

The Eikan-do temple grounds were beatiful as well. More understated than Nanzenji. We walked through the whole interior of the temple but it didn't grab our attention as much as a great Suikinkutsu and the nice view from a high pagoda at the back of the temple.

After the temple, we moved onto the "Path of Philosophy". This path along a walled stream runs for about 2kms from Eikan-do to Ginkakuji and had quiet houses and temple grounds on one side and thick forest on the other. The contemplative atmosphere thinned as the houses became busier and motorscooters whizzed past but we still had fun. The final path to Ginkakuji was an uphill street past every kind of lame second rate kimono/phone strap/hankerchief/dango shop but we made it. Ginkakuji is one of the most popular attractions in Kyoto but since it was getting late in the afternoon and extremely cold I don't think it was too busy. There was a crowd of people there, but it wasn't crowded. We were mainly interested in seeing the pretty moss garden. It was great and worth the walk. The pavilion itself was being repaired but we could still see it under its big tent and it was interesting to see the frame of the structure and how it was being put together.

To get home we decided to try the Kyoto buses since the metro doesn't come out to Ginkakuji. It was easy to find the right bus and take our ticket but before we got home the bus became completely packed. We had to push to the front to pay (in Japan you pay at the end of the bus trip) emitting "sumimasen!"s all the way.

Dinner was another meal at the shop we don't know the name of. It was arguably even more delicious tonight and Chrissy had ordered a cheaper dish. Arigatou gozaimasu, mystery restaurant!

We went for another shopping walk but couldn't find the mystery shop. I think I might have found the bag shop but it was too late and it was closed. It was close to where dad had marked it but not exactly. Maybe its a different one? I don't know. It was in the covered arcade area. I'll go again tomorrow and look around.

Home now, super tired.