February 3rd - Setsubun in Takayama!

Today we got up reasonably early, checked out and took the train to Takayama at about 10:56. The train was booked out so we had to use the non-reserved car, where we easily found seats. It became pretty crowded after a while, it seems everyone was going to Takayama. I slept for about an hour while Charles ate some strange sandwiches with tasty mystery foodstuffs. When I woke up, the scenery was starting to be really beautiful. The train goes along a river up into the mountains, and the water is an amazing colour green. The higher we went, the snowier it became outside, until the whole landscape was covered in snow. It was super lovely!! We took a bajillion photos.

At Takayama, where it was much colder than inside the train, it was actually snowing! There were snowflakes that stayed on my nose and eyelashes! It was a very short fun walk to our hotel, where we hung around and had a cup of tea. We were both feeling a bit sniffly, probably because of the weather.

We head out to look at a nearby shrine, because today was Setsubun. Setsubun is the festival where people usher out devils (Oni) and welcome in good luck. There were a bunch of men all dressed up as devils and gods at the shrine, freaking out babies. It must be good luck to hand your screaming baby to a devil for a photo. It was like photos with Santa! One Oni saw us and posed with me because I was a foreigner.

We followed the group down the street. The Oni went into every shop, and was "chased" (followed) out by the gods, who handed out dried beans. They were chanting the whole way "Devils outside! Luck inside!". I thought people were supposed to throw the beans at the devil, but we only saw some kids throwing them at each other.

We popped into a coffee shop/glassware shop where we had a delicious cake and coffee set each. It was right next to the river, and we could see the bridge and ducks. We saw the Oni go by on the bridge.

We walked along the bridge and came to the "old private houses" of Takayama. These wooden houses are shops that sell all manner of touristy stuff, as well as sake and food. When we wound our way back to our hotel, we ran into the Oni again and he shook my hand because he recognised me. They're a riot!

After a little rest, we headed out to a restaurant where Charles' parents went while they were here, and where we went last time too. I had sukiyaki, and Charles had something like sukiyaki, but with miso paste. It was all very delicious. The waitress told us that her son was in the Setsubun procession today as a god. Then who should show up but the Oni and his party of gods, scattering beans everywhere. He spotted us and said something like "YOU AGAIN!!!" but in Japanese. The waitress' son was with the party and she caught him and told the restaurant "THIS IS MY SON!!" and we all waved at him. She was really proud. It was the best. They made a big mess with beans everywhere.

Back at the hotel we watched T.V. for a while in the common room. Nobody came to join us but there were a bunch of annoying "travelling type" people in the kitchen talking about eating live fish and stuff. Gross.

Our room here is quite nice and we have really nice futon to sleep on, but we don't have our own bathroom or even our own hot water machine. Also we have to walk up stairs to the fourth floor which is REALLY HARD. Charles had to carry both bags (one by one).

In conclusion, snow is pretty.